I am having this exact problem in latest Evernote for iOS. Never happened before. (All new Evernote versions (macOS and iOS) suck and are terrible. Luckily, I can use legacy version in macOS, but for iOS I am stuck with this awful new app. ) Anyway, back to the topic, I click on the gray box as mentioned here. But nothing happens. No magic wand, nothing. This is terrible. How can I edit these notes in iOS? They appear normally in macOS client as well as web browser. Only in iOS do I get the uneditable HTML box. Thanks for help!