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Is there a way to change the look of the UI. The all white scheme is hard on the eyes and there are no visual cues to help guide the eyes through what can be a sea of notes. White space is great but becomes hard to use and ineffective when there are no visual cues. It's a shame because Evernote is a great solution in theory. It's back to OneNote.

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Hi.  There are no options within Evernote to change appearance.  Are you using the installed app,  or the web version?  On the web you may have some possibilities..

For his own use, user @RobertJSawyer created a style sheet for the Web (browser) version of Evernote that gets rid of most of the white;


(If you use Firefox, install the Stylish add on, then install his stylesheet.)

He also suggested Pangolin Software's free PangoBright utility which lets you dim the screen easily:


There are probably other third party utilities around.  and if you use the installed desktop client you could look into templates to color note backgrounds.

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